ANCIENT INDIAN-JEWELRY-Jewelry from Harappan,Mohenjodaro & Mughal civilization
Ancient Indian ethnic jewelry has been created since the Neolithic-era, (7500 BC to 5000 BC). During this time the Indus Valley civilization existed along with the Harappan culture, at this time Iron was being developed in various forms. The Indus valley area covered part of the Indian continent and Persia (Iran), whereas the Harappans were people from Mesopotamia, ancient Egypt, China and other parts of Asia. They covered a large area along the Sarswati River as mentioned in the Rig-Veda.
The ancient Indian ethnic jewelry in that period consisted of many kinds of beads and shells, turquoise, agates, carnelians and many other stones (uncut), were used. During the Harappan culture, since it was the developing metal age, many ornaments using gold, silver, bronze and copper were crafted. The dancing girl of Mohenjodaro (2400 BC) is a good example of ancient jewelry of that era. The ancient ethnic jewelry at that time also depicted animals, trees, sexual organs etc. Jewelry was mostly worn by women and passed on to the next generation. The Harappan civilization also believed in Pashupati (Lord of the animals) as their major god or deity.
Life-style in the Indian sub-continent grew in richness and power starting from 650 BC to 250 BC when great kingdoms were formed. In fact when the Mughals ruled India their kingdom was vast and so was their power. Once the life –style increased arts and crafts became more prevalent. Indians were very talented in creating ancient ethnic jewelry, using various gemstones. From the 7th century BC, known to us many varieties of gemstones were used according to the Indian Jyotish Vidya (Indian astronomical science), namely diamond, jacinth, ruby, lapis-lazuli, sapphire, moonstone, pyrite, chrysoberyl, various rock crystals, emerald, tourmaline, garnet, topaz. These ethnic gemstones were divided into two groups, according to Indian astronomy and astrology, major gems and minor gems. (Maharatnas and Ratnas).
Ethnic jewelry thrived all through during the reign of the Mauryas, the Marathas and the Mughals .Artistic and intricate jewelry reached its limits when these dynasties ruled.
Jewelry played an important role during an Indian marriage. The adornment of the bride was the most vital factor. The “Solah Shringar” or Sixteen Adornments consisted of adorning the bride from head to foot. This meant cosmetic and jewelry.
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ANCIENT VICTORIAN JEWELRY-Royal Fashion Jewelry of Great England
The Victorian times, when the Georges and Edwards ruled, all social moods as well as fashion and style were controlled or highly influenced by the royal blood and monarchs.
Jewelry of Victorian Era
The Georgian rule from 1715 to 1831(George I to George IV), saw both the French and the American revolutions. Royalties set the fashion trend so the ancient jewelry designs were heavy and intricate. These designs included earrings in chandelier fashion, heavy chokers and necklaces with diamonds flowing and other neck fashions consisting of many rings all studded with diamonds. Many varieties of gemstones were used but diamond was the most popular one of that era.
Fashion was so opulent at that time that even the dresses were embroidered with jewels. The collars and seams of women’s attire were completely laden with either jewelry or various kinds of lacy gold thread in many decorative designs.
The Victorian age (1838 to 1902), saw the end of the Georgian rule and great social transitions took place. This Victorian period is also known as the “Romantic Era”. During that era the symbols of significance were flowers, birds, grapes, snakes and other romantic signs. Importance was given to dreams, gardens and other sentimental imaginations.
Victorian times saw the significance of hair jewelry. The hair of a loved one was woven into an intricate design, along with a brooch or bracelet and presented to the other loved one. The queen herself gifted a lot of such hair jewelry. Various gemstones were used in this art of hair jewelry.
With the sudden death of Prince Albert the Victorian Romantic times ended after a period of about twenty years. The country or social mood went into mourning, black stones like the onyx started coming into fashion. Other fashions included shells, agate, and carnelian in various designs. Queen Victoria lived in Scotland so the Celtic cross was introduced as a symbol as well as a brooch, locket or pin. A lot of Grecian and Etruscan designs were popular in this period.
When Queen Victoria became the Empress of India, oriental ancient ethnic designs were introduced into European art. In short by the time Queen Victoria passed away in 1900 intricate jewelry and gem designing were at their peak, hence the importance of this era.
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